Little Red Ridding Hood Costume Part 2

I’ve already posted about how i made Red Ridding Hoods Cloak so this post is dedicated to the under dress that i made for little red ridding hood.

Story book Red Ridding Hood Photoshoot 8We found this amazing ivy back drop for the photos when going for a evening stroll through the near by woods. All the material for this project was donated to me in the form of a couple of cream cotton duvet covers which with a bit of Dylon die i got to a pale pink.

 

Draping on the stand is my favorite method of creating a pattern which i used to create the pattern for this dress. If its a pattern i feel will be used a couple of times i transfer it to card format as it makes it really easy to draw around ad is flat. I cut two copies of every piece from the same material one for the top layer then one for the lining as i had loads spare of the cotton.

Smocking was both exciting and laborious it started out fun as it was a new skill that i had never done before and the after effect looks amazing but i will say that it was exstreamly time consuming, mainly because i decided to cover almost all of the front bodice. I also had to play around with trial and error to get the right depth and width of each smocked line. In the end i settled with a drawn grid on to a fabric piece measuring 200 cm by 30 cm  fabric with a row every 15 mm high and a row every 5 mm wide. I ran a simple running stitch along the width of the fabric sewing through the point were the two lines met every 5 mm till i had a very tight series of very small pleats. From the bottom up i added more and more pleats each time to create a triangular shape that would fit the front panel of the dress.

After about 7 hours the smocking was finished and ready to attach to the front panel pattern piece which was hand sewn to secure it along the edges then all the excess marital was cut away. With this all done i could sew all the pieces of the bodice together for both the front and lining.

To neaten the seam i added a little decorative lace and some beads.

Before sewing the lining and bodice front together i added a series of boning channels to the lining using spiral steel boning. This was to give a fitted shape to the finished dress.

Facing the two pieces together i sewed along the neckline and sides so it could be turned out side in to give a clean finished edge.

The last few steps were nice and simple by adding bias binding to the bottom of the bodice and attaching the skirt, made from a simple rectangle cut to a length just below the knee. I also added eyelets to the back of the dress so it could be laced up.

Here’s a few of the finished pics

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Little Red Ridding Hood Part 1

As i am now on my gap year, every week or so i am setting my self a new challenge of picking a character and costuming for them as its my aim to improve and refine my skills before going off to UNI next year. My first character i pulled out the hat which is Little Red Ridding Hood, now complete so i thought i would give a quick tutorial on how i made it.                                                                                                                                            Each project i am going through the process of design as if i was costuming for a show which involves, working out theme, setting, characters personality and details like age and class and many other little bits a pieces so that before i actually do any sketches i know as much about the character as possible to build a clear picture of what i need to portray through the costume. I usually create a mood board as well to act as a starting point.                                                                                                                                                         With all that finished i start designing coming up with several ideas so i don’t limit my self or over cram ideas in to just one. Theses were a couple of the original sketches for Little Red Ridding Hood.Little Red Ridding Hood Costume Tutorial Cloak 3From these i picked that Sketch 5 to take further and actually make.                                        I used 8 mtrs of crinkled taffeta, 4 mtrs poly-satin, 30 by 30 cm red velvet, one meter of red floral cotton, and 6 mtrs of circular reed boning.

I started with the hood as it was the most challenging  part as have never attempted to make a structured hood ever.

The hood pattern was roughly 60 wide and 65 tall with a curved edge for the back. i used a floral red cotton which would be visible on the inside of the hood how ever i backed it with some scrape waterproof material to help the hood hold its shape.

I wanted the hood to be overly large with out it falling over the face completely so i had to create a boned frame along the front edge of the hood to hold the shape. For this i created six, 5 mm channels that i could slide lengths of reed boning in too. Quite quickly i realized the reed had a habit of braking if bent two much but managed to solve this by runing a medium zig zag stitch over the reed channel.

With the cotton lining complete i started to ruffle the crinkled taffeta around the main edge of the hood i did this inside out so that i could turn it in to give a neat edge.Little Red Ridding Hood Costume Tutorial Cloak 17

I made the top bit of the cloak fitted which makes it a lot less bulky then gathering all the material along the bottom of the hood. I also used a row of hook and eye attachments so that it could be fastened at the front.

This is the completed hood and the beginning of the cloak attached together.

For the cloak it consisted of two layers and the outer red crinkled fabric measuring 6 mtrs by 1.5 mtrs. The lining layer was made from the red satin but was smaller than the other layer only measuring 4 mtrs by 1.2 mtrs this was sewn together and turned in side out like a pillow to give a neat edge before sewing it together with the hood.

The Sleeves were made in a similar style ruffled at the top and bottom to give volume to them.

Along the top edge of the sleeves i finished them off with a decorative velvet strip with flowers that i had laser run and hand sewed together with beads to decorate.

The sleeves are detachable from the cloak with a simple lacing technique often used in historical clothing.

Hers some of the finished picks

Sea Green Fairy Tale Mermaid Dress

Sea Green Mermaid Dress Tutorial 9This was just going to be a simple project to use up some of my fabric scraps but was amazed by how it turned out even if i did spend 6 hours solid beading the front of the bodice. I cant say what all the materials are that i used and how many meters exactly there were as it was all made from found scraps but id but a estimate on about 6 meters total. Sea Green Mermaid Dress Tutorial process 1

For the bodice i reused one i made over a year ago for another project whitch you can see how i cerated it through the link https://hedonisticdesign.wordpress.com/2016/08/16/fairy-tale-chiffon-ball-gown/          For the bodice i used 2 layers of fabric the first mint chiffon and the back a mint cotton to give strength.

Only filling in the front panel of the bodice i pleated strips of ribbon sewing a couple at random like sea waves then came the long part the beading using every think from peals, shells, sequins, buttons, glass beads, seed beads as well as semi precious stone almost every think the right color that i found in my many boxes of just stuff. Lucky for me i real enjoy sticking on my music and stitching as it took over 6 hours to complete the panel done over 2 nights even did some sewing at the pub.

The scales were a bit of an experiment which i liked so much that i decided to use them in the project. Each scale is an is a single piece, 4 cm diameter circal of Chiffon and poly silk about 250 in total. And before you panic i didn’t cut them all out by hand as i am lucky that my parents have a craft business that have laser cutters so got them cut that way in just a couple off mins. Each scale was given i splash of a fabric glitter glue i had then whilst it was still wet i sprinkled a very fine Gold glitter on one side of the scale which meant every single one was different.

I Made a cotton lining for the bodices which was bones using spiral steel boning.

One to the lining layer i attached a series of square scraps of fabric pinched at the center and hug from there.  Mixing up the material and layered them to give that chaotic sense of the sea.

The last few steps i don’t have any photos of but it simply involved sewing the front bodice on to the lining covering the rough edges with bias binding before adding eyelets to the back for lacing it up.

And here you go some of the finished pics. And my friend even managed to get some pics of her with it at the beach like a true mermaid.

Hermia’s wedding Dress

OW1-1This dress was going to look a lot different then what it actually turned out to be as the original fabric was very cheap and stiff put i luckily found this amazing silver satin brocade in my trips round the shops and in total only needed 3 mtrs for the dress. Other materials included half a meter of grey cotton, 4 mtrs of blue brocade ribbon and 4 mtrs of white. 1.5 mtr lace and mix of round and tear pearls. The pattern was one i had made for a different project which i’m sorry i don’t have any pics of creating.

 

The bodice consisted of the silver brocade outer layer and the lining was a cream cotton.

 

I used a sleeve pattern from another dress i had made as a basis. From the elbow height to the wrist i sewed strips of ribbon brocade in a wave effect similar to the styles of renaissance sleeves and on four points did a simple running stitch to hold them.

 

With the ribbons attached i sewed the two seams of the sleeve together to form the shape of the sleeve.

with sleeves seams sewn together it was ready to sew on the top section of the sleeve that was puffy. this consisted of a 40 cm by 70 cm rectangle sewn in to a large tube of the silvery brocade. To attach this neatly i sewed it at the top of the ribbons inside out making it look neatly joined on the out side. The top edge was sewn on the correct side and pleated on to the top of the base sleeve before being attached on to the dress. IMG_0128I added some lace decoration around the neck line of the bodice then along the edge i added a couple of little pearls to added decoration.

Lysander and Demetrius A Mid Summer Nights Dream

I don’t actually have enough photo of the making process to make a tutorial but wanted to show some of the photos of the finished costume, i paired both Demetrius and Lysander so that the two costumes would have similarity’s as the character both share a similar importance, age and status within the play.  8c065f9537b0ced3c3336bbfa09cbbe7 (1)                               I used the above renaissance painting to base there costumes of off the. Blue one inspired Lysander’s costume and the green worked well for the envious Demetrius.

Below pics of Demetrius finished costume modeled my my brother Angelus

Below pics of Lysander’s finished costume modeled by another one of my brothers.

Floral 18th century stay

I have always loved 18th century fashion and a night of no sleep led me to creating this in the early hours of the morning.

My usual fabric shop was having a sale on there patterns and they had this 18th century corset one for £4 which is something i don’t usually buy as i prefer to make my own patterns but so glad i did as it was a really well designed pattern. I went with view A from the Butterick B4254 pattern with lacing at the back.  The floral material came from IKEA for about £7 and all the lining was left over scraps of fabric i had.

As i usually do i transfer the pattern pieces on to card as i find them so much easier to work with; this also aloud me to easily mark out all the boning channels as on the card i made holes at all the ends and joins in the line so i could put dots on to the fabric then later join them together like a dot to dot drawing. For each piece i cut four copy’s of it, the top layer floral patterned cotton then two cotton backing layers that would strengthen the two sides front and back then the last layer was the back made of a pink cotton.

The above pic shows all the channel lines that i drew on to the back of the fabric. In the end i doubled each of the channels by putting two channels in the space of every one that the pattern suggested. This was for two reasons. The first the boning i had was 5 mm wide rather than 10 mm as well a historically the boning would have been thinner like mine compared to the design suggestions. I sewed along each of the lines with the 4 layers of fabric together as this formed the boning channels.

For my boning i uses two strips of corset reed, which is historically correct, for each channel cutting the length to size then rounding the top edges with scissors to stop them from taring the fabric. Some of the boning had to be put in place before i could sew all the channels as otherwise there would have been no way to slip it in to the middle of the layers of fabric.

finishing the edges of took its time and patience using a 1 cm wide binding which to neatly work around all the edges i hand stitched it then when over it with the sewing machine.

All of the eyelets were hand stitched which was along process with 24 in total but was well worth it.

It was a bit of a rainy day for a photo shoot but managed 10 mins before it started raining.

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Will hope full have a proper photo-shoot soon

Piromus and Thisbe A Mid Summer Nights Dream

The play with in a play from a Mid Summer Nights Dream the two lovers who speak to one another through the crack in the wall. All though these characters are not major with in the play, i was creating as many of the costume that i could for my college final piece basing each costume upon a historic painting.

I took inspiration for the costumes from painter John William Godward

To create the Greek Chiton was very basic using a full 4 mrts of pink chiffon and 6 gold colored buttons.

Folded the fabric in half sewing up the shorter side to form a large tube from the fabric. i rolled hemed the bottom and top before cutting two 25 cm slits at the sides to act as arm holes.

Along the top i used the buttons to join the two sides together one button on the end of the sides and another on 20 cm in and another on 40 cm along the top edge of each end. the neck hole at first was a little two wide so i pleated it at the top to the right size and secured it with a couple of stitches.

Titania Queen Of the Fairy’s Costume

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First of the set of costumes i created for a Mid Summer Nights Dream

I love how this dress turned out as it was quite simple to make, so i spent the whole time worrying that i wasn’t doing enough but it turned out really well, and was beautifully modeled by my friend rowan.

The dress was also not that expensive to make as almost all of the fabric came from charity shop finds or was donated to me from friends. I used a pattern that i had created using draping on the mannequin technique on a previous project.

I used a white cotton as the lining for the bodice and on the top a silky white brocade which came from some pillow cases that i found at a charity shop. The bottom layer was made from a white cotton that i cartridge pleated onto the inner bodice lining before sewing the two parts together. On top of the under skirt I sewed two layers of Voile the first in pink which consisted of 3 mtrs that opened at the front of the dress with another layer on top which was 2 mtrs of purple voile.

The sleeves i made of the same brocade as the bodice which was backed on to a plain cotton so that i would be able to have the bottom of the sleeves tight which was sewn flat on to the cotton backing. Then the top layer puffy made from a large rectangle of the brocade which was pleated midway on the sleeve then again at the top of the sleeve.

The cloak was really basic with 4 layers of fabric the bottom 3 made from blue, pink and purple voile each one measuring 3 mtrs by 1.5 mtrs these were then sewn to the shoulders of the dress allowing it to drape loosely from the shoulders the last layer was 4 mtrs of tulle which again was sewn to the top of the shoulders.

To top the dress off i created a simple flower crown from fake flowers that i sewed on to a circular wire frame. Using a hot glue gun I attached a couple of white feathers in around the flowers then finished it off by gluing a couple more flowers on top.

These are some of the finished pics from the photos shoot based on the paintings by John William Waterhouse.

 

Pantomime Time: Birds of A Feather

P1050468I Have been part of my panto group Moorlight productions for almost 10 years now and have loved every minuet. Each year i have acted in it but this year i got the opportunity to make a couple of costumes as well as mine so i thought i would do a little write up and put some pictures of them up. Sorry but don’t have a full tutorial of me making them as had to rush to finish them in time. i got the part of Goosepimples the Crow one of the two birds Goosepimples and Nippy ,played by one of my close friends Rowan, that made the comedy duo. Its fair to say we both had a wail of a time playing these parts and pretending to fly around the stage with are wings even if on one of the nights we might have scared a kid.

Here we two birdy’s are15799989_1760135687639112_5273311416871205347_o

The wings were the coolest part of the costume though did take a while to make each wing consisting of 10 neoprene hand painted large feathers that worked like a opening fan to allow us to move.

The first wing i made consisted of 18 parts not 10 which the picture above shows but i found that this got in the way and made it difficult to use our arms so i changed the bottom 8 to fabric then made the other 10 out of neoprene foam with a steel support wire sewn in to it. these parts were then sewn to the sleeve of our jacket with and over lay of laser cut feathers to make it look more realistic.

The Jacket pattern i design from scratch using my favourite method of draping on the stand.  For the trousers i used the same method from my clown costume which can be seen here https://hedonisticdesign.wordpress.com/2017/01/30/pastel-clown-costume/.

Quick Studio photos more so i could have an excuse to wear it to collage.

A Couple of back stage and on stage Photos

Pastel Clown Costume

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Ladies and Gentlemen, boys and girls i welcome you to my circus of costume creations, this week presenting my clown. This was a bit of a sper of the moment creation as i was sorting through all my fabric scraps and had loads of pink and mint bits, typical of me to suddenly think clown.

I was very lucky to get away with not buying a single bit for this creation as its interly made of off cuts and fabric scraps from my previous costumes. And buttons were donated to me from a friend.

Here’s the fashion sketch i drafted before i made P1050976 (2).jpg

I had made a bird costume a couple of weeks ago so used the pattern i had made of the jacket for this project. Don’t have any pictures of me making the jacket pattern but i used my usual technique of draping on the stand.With the pattern pieces cut out i took lots of scrape fabric and cut them in to strips so that i could sew them on the the jacket base.

I wanted to create patchwork and mismatch style so used 5 different buttons then tailored each button hole to each buttons size.

Instead of long thin strips of scrap fabric for the sleeves i used an assortment of different squares that were sen on to a base piece then attached to the jacket its self.wp_20170117_004

The trousers were nice and simple just 4 rectangles with the dip like the one above sewn together then sewn on to elastic waist band and leg holes. The rectangle pattern piece was 60 cm by 90 cm.

Like the trousers the neck ruffle was fairly strait forward with a circular base layer of mint material then a long ruffled strip of spotty organza sewn on to then sen on to a neck colour piece.

And thats the end of the show

Just Clowning Aroundpastel-clown-tutorial-13pastel-clown-tutorial-15