Hermia’s wedding Dress

OW1-1This dress was going to look a lot different then what it actually turned out to be as the original fabric was very cheap and stiff put i luckily found this amazing silver satin brocade in my trips round the shops and in total only needed 3 mtrs for the dress. Other materials included half a meter of grey cotton, 4 mtrs of blue brocade ribbon and 4 mtrs of white. 1.5 mtr lace and mix of round and tear pearls. The pattern was one i had made for a different project which i’m sorry i don’t have any pics of creating.

 

The bodice consisted of the silver brocade outer layer and the lining was a cream cotton.

 

I used a sleeve pattern from another dress i had made as a basis. From the elbow height to the wrist i sewed strips of ribbon brocade in a wave effect similar to the styles of renaissance sleeves and on four points did a simple running stitch to hold them.

 

With the ribbons attached i sewed the two seams of the sleeve together to form the shape of the sleeve.

with sleeves seams sewn together it was ready to sew on the top section of the sleeve that was puffy. this consisted of a 40 cm by 70 cm rectangle sewn in to a large tube of the silvery brocade. To attach this neatly i sewed it at the top of the ribbons inside out making it look neatly joined on the out side. The top edge was sewn on the correct side and pleated on to the top of the base sleeve before being attached on to the dress. IMG_0128I added some lace decoration around the neck line of the bodice then along the edge i added a couple of little pearls to added decoration.

Lysander and Demetrius A Mid Summer Nights Dream

I don’t actually have enough photo of the making process to make a tutorial but wanted to show some of the photos of the finished costume, i paired both Demetrius and Lysander so that the two costumes would have similarity’s as the character both share a similar importance, age and status within the play.  8c065f9537b0ced3c3336bbfa09cbbe7 (1)                               I used the above renaissance painting to base there costumes of off the. Blue one inspired Lysander’s costume and the green worked well for the envious Demetrius.

Below pics of Demetrius finished costume modeled my my brother Angelus

Below pics of Lysander’s finished costume modeled by another one of my brothers.

Floral 18th century stay

I have always loved 18th century fashion and a night of no sleep led me to creating this in the early hours of the morning.

My usual fabric shop was having a sale on there patterns and they had this 18th century corset one for £4 which is something i don’t usually buy as i prefer to make my own patterns but so glad i did as it was a really well designed pattern. I went with view A from the Butterick B4254 pattern with lacing at the back.  The floral material came from IKEA for about £7 and all the lining was left over scraps of fabric i had.

As i usually do i transfer the pattern pieces on to card as i find them so much easier to work with; this also aloud me to easily mark out all the boning channels as on the card i made holes at all the ends and joins in the line so i could put dots on to the fabric then later join them together like a dot to dot drawing. For each piece i cut four copy’s of it, the top layer floral patterned cotton then two cotton backing layers that would strengthen the two sides front and back then the last layer was the back made of a pink cotton.

The above pic shows all the channel lines that i drew on to the back of the fabric. In the end i doubled each of the channels by putting two channels in the space of every one that the pattern suggested. This was for two reasons. The first the boning i had was 5 mm wide rather than 10 mm as well a historically the boning would have been thinner like mine compared to the design suggestions. I sewed along each of the lines with the 4 layers of fabric together as this formed the boning channels.

For my boning i uses two strips of corset reed, which is historically correct, for each channel cutting the length to size then rounding the top edges with scissors to stop them from taring the fabric. Some of the boning had to be put in place before i could sew all the channels as otherwise there would have been no way to slip it in to the middle of the layers of fabric.

finishing the edges of took its time and patience using a 1 cm wide binding which to neatly work around all the edges i hand stitched it then when over it with the sewing machine.

All of the eyelets were hand stitched which was along process with 24 in total but was well worth it.

It was a bit of a rainy day for a photo shoot but managed 10 mins before it started raining.

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Will hope full have a proper photo-shoot soon

Piromus and Thisbe A Mid Summer Nights Dream

The play with in a play from a Mid Summer Nights Dream the two lovers who speak to one another through the crack in the wall. All though these characters are not major with in the play, i was creating as many of the costume that i could for my college final piece basing each costume upon a historic painting.

I took inspiration for the costumes from painter John William Godward

To create the Greek Chiton was very basic using a full 4 mrts of pink chiffon and 6 gold colored buttons.

Folded the fabric in half sewing up the shorter side to form a large tube from the fabric. i rolled hemed the bottom and top before cutting two 25 cm slits at the sides to act as arm holes.

Along the top i used the buttons to join the two sides together one button on the end of the sides and another on 20 cm in and another on 40 cm along the top edge of each end. the neck hole at first was a little two wide so i pleated it at the top to the right size and secured it with a couple of stitches.

Titania Queen Of the Fairy’s Costume

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First of the set of costumes i created for a Mid Summer Nights Dream

I love how this dress turned out as it was quite simple to make, so i spent the whole time worrying that i wasn’t doing enough but it turned out really well, and was beautifully modeled by my friend rowan.

The dress was also not that expensive to make as almost all of the fabric came from charity shop finds or was donated to me from friends. I used a pattern that i had created using draping on the mannequin technique on a previous project.

I used a white cotton as the lining for the bodice and on the top a silky white brocade which came from some pillow cases that i found at a charity shop. The bottom layer was made from a white cotton that i cartridge pleated onto the inner bodice lining before sewing the two parts together. On top of the under skirt I sewed two layers of Voile the first in pink which consisted of 3 mtrs that opened at the front of the dress with another layer on top which was 2 mtrs of purple voile.

The sleeves i made of the same brocade as the bodice which was backed on to a plain cotton so that i would be able to have the bottom of the sleeves tight which was sewn flat on to the cotton backing. Then the top layer puffy made from a large rectangle of the brocade which was pleated midway on the sleeve then again at the top of the sleeve.

The cloak was really basic with 4 layers of fabric the bottom 3 made from blue, pink and purple voile each one measuring 3 mtrs by 1.5 mtrs these were then sewn to the shoulders of the dress allowing it to drape loosely from the shoulders the last layer was 4 mtrs of tulle which again was sewn to the top of the shoulders.

To top the dress off i created a simple flower crown from fake flowers that i sewed on to a circular wire frame. Using a hot glue gun I attached a couple of white feathers in around the flowers then finished it off by gluing a couple more flowers on top.

These are some of the finished pics from the photos shoot based on the paintings by John William Waterhouse.

 

Pantomime Time: Birds of A Feather

P1050468I Have been part of my panto group Moorlight productions for almost 10 years now and have loved every minuet. Each year i have acted in it but this year i got the opportunity to make a couple of costumes as well as mine so i thought i would do a little write up and put some pictures of them up. Sorry but don’t have a full tutorial of me making them as had to rush to finish them in time. i got the part of Goosepimples the Crow one of the two birds Goosepimples and Nippy ,played by one of my close friends Rowan, that made the comedy duo. Its fair to say we both had a wail of a time playing these parts and pretending to fly around the stage with are wings even if on one of the nights we might have scared a kid.

Here we two birdy’s are15799989_1760135687639112_5273311416871205347_o

The wings were the coolest part of the costume though did take a while to make each wing consisting of 10 neoprene hand painted large feathers that worked like a opening fan to allow us to move.

The first wing i made consisted of 18 parts not 10 which the picture above shows but i found that this got in the way and made it difficult to use our arms so i changed the bottom 8 to fabric then made the other 10 out of neoprene foam with a steel support wire sewn in to it. these parts were then sewn to the sleeve of our jacket with and over lay of laser cut feathers to make it look more realistic.

The Jacket pattern i design from scratch using my favourite method of draping on the stand.  For the trousers i used the same method from my clown costume which can be seen here https://hedonisticdesign.wordpress.com/2017/01/30/pastel-clown-costume/.

Quick Studio photos more so i could have an excuse to wear it to collage.

A Couple of back stage and on stage Photos

Pastel Clown Costume

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Ladies and Gentlemen, boys and girls i welcome you to my circus of costume creations, this week presenting my clown. This was a bit of a sper of the moment creation as i was sorting through all my fabric scraps and had loads of pink and mint bits, typical of me to suddenly think clown.

I was very lucky to get away with not buying a single bit for this creation as its interly made of off cuts and fabric scraps from my previous costumes. And buttons were donated to me from a friend.

Here’s the fashion sketch i drafted before i made P1050976 (2).jpg

I had made a bird costume a couple of weeks ago so used the pattern i had made of the jacket for this project. Don’t have any pictures of me making the jacket pattern but i used my usual technique of draping on the stand.With the pattern pieces cut out i took lots of scrape fabric and cut them in to strips so that i could sew them on the the jacket base.

I wanted to create patchwork and mismatch style so used 5 different buttons then tailored each button hole to each buttons size.

Instead of long thin strips of scrap fabric for the sleeves i used an assortment of different squares that were sen on to a base piece then attached to the jacket its self.wp_20170117_004

The trousers were nice and simple just 4 rectangles with the dip like the one above sewn together then sewn on to elastic waist band and leg holes. The rectangle pattern piece was 60 cm by 90 cm.

Like the trousers the neck ruffle was fairly strait forward with a circular base layer of mint material then a long ruffled strip of spotty organza sewn on to then sen on to a neck colour piece.

And thats the end of the show

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Metamorphosis Costume

Don’t have any of the making photos but wanted to put this one on here. It was my final piece in my A levels biased on the stimulus of metamorphosis. The dress its self actually metamorphoses from a white dress in to a black by pulling on the neck tie as the neck piece is spring loaded and unfolds in to its black form. The skirt works in a similar way as the white skirt is let lose it unfolds in to the black skirt. P1020077

Metamorphic dress

Metamorphic dress

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Chinese HanFu Costume

chinesse-han-fu-costume-tutorial-1I’ve always been fascinated with HanFu garments as there is something very fairy tale about them with the colours comely used and the light soft fabrics of silks and chiffon’s used. Had a little spare time over the Christmas holidays so decided to make one for my self.

Materials:

4 M Mint Polyester silk

4 M Mint Chiffon

3 M Peach Polyester silk

3 M Peach Chiffon

Half A Meter of Blue Cotton

4 M Of Peach Ribbon

Here We Go

The beginning was really nice and easy as it consisted of cutting 4 (2 of them in chiffon and the others in the mint poly silk) rectangle 2 m wide by the height from bust to toes.

I then cut two more rectangles this time a lot smaller at 12 cm by 40 cm with an front and inner lining to them. These act as the top of the dress then i took one of the large chiffon rectangles and one of the poly silk and ruffled them till the length was the same as the small one so they could then be sewn together. It did the same with the other rectangles, to have two matching sides. I then put the two sides together and sewed them together stopping 20 cm from the top of the dress. Pink ribbon was sewn on to the sides so that the dress could be fastened just above the bust.

The sleeves where giant squares 60 cm buy  60 cm with a one edge cut in partially so that they would dip in to massive sleeves. I made the first pear out of the satin silk as these would go in side the chiffon ones. wp_20161229_006When making the chiffon sleeves i enlarge the bottom edge by 10 cm so the poly silk ones would fit nicely inside. wp_20161229_007The main bit of the jacket was a simple rectangle 60 cm by 40 cm which i folded in half then sewed half way up the side seam leaving space for the arm holes. On one side of the jacket i cut a strait line in the centre up to where the neck line would be to form the front, then edged this opening with silk bias binding. wp_20161229_008Last part was sewing the sleeves on to the pink chiffon jacket to finish the second part to the costume.

Finished Hurrah 🙂chinesse-han-fu-costume-tutorial-3chinesse-han-fu-costume-tutorial-8chinesse-han-fu-costume-tutorial-15chinesse-han-fu-costume-tutorial-9

Laser Cut Gothic Wooden Dress

I Don’t have the in the making pics for this dress but its one of my favourite so couldn’t resist putting on here. It was a piece of wearable art that i created for my AS Textile project after being given the stimulus of architecture. I designed each panel and cut them out of layers of  ply wood using a laser cuter when using water colour to paint each piece.

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